Flag Hill Winery & Distillery

It is once again pruning season at Flag Hill.  Each year we receive multiple requests to collect some of the clippings, which we are happy to offer.  Whether it be for decorative purposes or for starting grape vines of their own.  For those looking to use the clipings to begin growing the vine, here are some tips:

Taking Clippings from the Vineyard:  guests are allowed to walk the vineyard for collecting clippings Wed-Sun, 11am-12pm and 1pm-5pm.

1. Choose clippings that have nodes that are not too far apart from each other, approximately 3-4 inches apart is a good measurement
2. Choose clippings that are approximately ¼ – ½ inch in diameter – not too thin, not too thick
3. Cut each end of the clipping at an angle such that 4 nodes are left.  2 nodes should be planted in the dirt, 2 left out
4. Clippings can be stored until it is time to plant.  Vines are very portable and will last a long time.  Keep the clippings in a slightly moist dark space.  Be sure not to store in a wet space.
5. If you have a vine that does well and you want to grow more, remember grape vines do not grow by seeds, they grow only by planting the cuttings that get pruned off in the spring or by purchasing bare root stock (vines with the root system already grown in)

Planting your Clippings

Location, location, location: the best location will have the following characteristics:

1.  
   1. An area that was NOT previously used for typical plant or vegetable gardening.  Typically the soil in this area would be too acidic for the plant.  Plant in an area where planting has not been done before, or if you know a spot where the soil is more sour (ph of around 5.9-6.1).  While not necessary for the personal/hobbyist grower you can have your soil tested through various companies or through UNH.  To bring ph levels down (souring the soil) you can use sulfur purchased at your local Agway store.
   2. An area where there is good ground drainage (slopes, hills) and the area does not typically have standing water.
   3. About 6-8 inches of top soil is okay, but grape vines are a dessert plant, they like gravel and sand for their roots.  Try and stay away from soils with lots of clay.
   4. Air movement is just as important as water drainage.  A gusty or windy area on your property is best to help with air movement.
   5. FULL SUN!  This can’t be stressed enough.  These vines need to soak up lots of sun rays

Planting & caring for vines: don’t “over mother” the vines, they do well on their own

1. Plant the clipping with 2 of the four nodes in the dirt.
2. Planting in this area is usually done the first weekend in May.  If a frost hits after you have planted, protect the vine overnight by covering it with something from around the house, a bucket, sheet, etc
3. If a frost has not hit by May 20^th, usually it means one will not come
4. Don’t pack the hole you are planting in too tight.  At ground level create a small dirt hill with the peak being the actual vine to assist in leading excess water away from the vine
5. DO NOT OVERWATER!  With most spring seasons, you may not have to water it at all, the New England weather will do that naturally.  If we do have some dry spells, water the plant, then let it dry out thoroughly before watering again.  This would amount to about a once a week watering if we have not had rain.
6. Your biggest threats to the vine from a nature standpoint are Japanese beetles and deer.  The best thing to do for the Japanese beetle is simply to pick them off.  Don’t worry if they defoliate a little bit of the plant, about 25% of the plant or less is not going to hurt it.  If you have a larger vineyard or decide the problem is beyond picking, the best thing to use is Carbayl 4L (again available at Agway).  Picking or spraying is preferred over traps, but if you do decide to use a trap, make sure it is downwind.  Traps are more expensive and you may find they end up attracting more beetles to the area than deterring them.
7. If you have deer in your area, they can be a problem, they enjoy eating the tendrils and buds of the vine.  Garden fencing can help.
8. Again, for personal use, herbicides are probably not necessary, but if you choose to use one, 10/10/10 can be purchased at a local Agway.  Sprinkle about 3 ounces per vine in a circle around the vine, leaving about 6-8 inches of space between the circle and the plant.  Do this only once a year at planting time.
9. If your vine begins to form fruit in any of the first three years after planting, cut the fruit off and throw it away.  The vine’s energy in the first 3 years needs to be directed to the root system, this will help to develop good fruit in the later years of the vine.
10. For those planting indoors, you will need a deep bucket so that the roots have room to grow.  What you see happening to the vine from the dirt up, the same, if not more growth is happening below the soil.  The roots have more of a tendency to grow down rather than out/across.  Keep the vines in a warm site near a window.  Whatever you use, cut holes in the bottom for drainage and mix your potting soil with sand and perhaps some rocks at the bottom.
11. When it is time to allow the fruit to grow, one of the most common deficiencies in the soil might be a deficiency in boron.  If the fruit set/grapes fall early before fully developing, it is most likely that there is a boron deficiency in the soil.

The easiest grapes to grow in this region are those that are native to this region – the white grape – Niagara, and the red grape – Concord.  Both grapes are very versatile and can be used for making grape juice, jelly, jam, pies, and of course a decent (and usually sweet) wine.  Following these two grapes, you might try Cayuga White which is another versatile grape or Marechal Foch.  The Foch is a red grape and grows well in this area, but really is just best suited for making wine.